Staining your concrete slab or pavers is a cheap and easy way to make a dramatic difference in the look of your patio! I added new concrete pavers around my existing slab, so the new and the old were two different colors. It made sense to stain everything so the whole patio would be more uniform-looking. See?!?! I'm not going to lie...After making all of this concrete, I was super scared to stain it and maybe mess it up, so I did a ton of research on this process. Here are my findings and also a little how-to video to help make your staining project a success!
Acid Stain vs Water-based Stain
Your first order of business is deciding which type of stain is right for you. You can purchase samples (although it's not cheap) to help with making this decision. I got samples of Renaissance (acid-based) Concrete Chemical Stain and Buddy Rhodes (water-based) Glaze to play with on a couple of pavers that are going to be hidden. This is what it looked like when I used a small spray bottle to apply both stains. I had three different colors to try out in the acid stain, and I blended two colors of the water-based stain together.
First, let's take a look at the acid stain. See how the rust color in the middle bled onto the black? It seems as though the colors wouldn't blend well if I wanted to layer them. Most acid stains are a mixture of water, hydrochloric acid and acid-soluble metallic salts. They work by penetrating the surface and reacting chemically with the hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) in the concrete. The acid in the stain lightly etches the surface, allowing the metallic salts to penetrate more easily. Once the stain reacts, it becomes a permanent part of the concrete and won't fade, chip off or peel away. I like that! What acid stains don't offer is a broad color selection. The palette for acid-etch staining is generally limited to earthy tones, such as tans, browns, terra cottas and soft blue-greens. FYI - If you decide to go with an acid stain, they require neutralization to stop the chemical reaction. Use a solution of water and either baking soda, T.S.P, or ammonia and rinse thoroughly.
Now let's take a look at the water-based glaze. I have blended two colors together here: Leather and Black, for a multi-faceted look. Being that this is straight pigment, and does not rely on a chemical reaction to produce the color, I found that it was much easier to control the outcome. The water-based stains also come in a wide range of colors, and most are UV stable, so they are ok to use outside.
This choice is really going to be a personal preference for you. I think that the acid-stain would be much more durable, but I chose the water-based for looks. I'm shallow like that. :) Seriously, though, this was a decision based purely on fear. After making all of that concrete, I wanted to use a stain I could easily manipulate. Plus, I really like the look of the Black layered over the Leather. Don't you?
Now, let's get started! Here is a short video of my process. Enjoy!
Video directed and edited by: Michael Maly, Above the Radar PR
Supplies:
Spray bottles for each color and one for water. I used bottles with adjustable nozzles for the water and the Leather color, so I could control it better. I used a small, travel-size mister for the Black. If you choose to use acid stain, a Flora Sprayer might work best to cover a large area.
Small, foam roller
9" roller for rough surfaces for the sealer
Heavy-duty scrub brush
Degreaser if you are staining old concrete
Sealant You can choose an epoxy with a matte, satin or glossy sheen to seal and protect your color. I opted to use a multi-surface water proofer that protects against mold and mildew. (Here's a link to what I used).
Directions:
Step 1: Clean the area you are staining. Since the concrete is new, I didn’t have to degrease it, but if you are staining old concrete, you will want to scrub it well with a good degreaser. Luckily, I just had a little dirt on mine, and was able to get away with using water and a heavy-duty scrub brush. Power washing is also a quick and easy way to clean the surface.
Step 2: Stain the concrete. There's no wrong or right way to do this, because you are the artist here! Do what looks good to you, but here are some tips if you want them:
You can dilute the stains up to 50% if you choose. I just diluted the Leather color down to about 75% stain and 25% water in order to make it last longer.
You want the concrete to be a little damp, but not wet. If the concrete is hot or dry, the stain will immediately soak in and you can’t manipulate it with the roller at all.
If a spot is too dark, spray water on it. If the color is coming out too light, wait for the concrete to dry a little and start again.
Do two light coats vs one heavy coat. Once I was done with the first coat, I felt like it was still a little too orange, so I went back over the whole thing with a light mist of the black stain. The next day, I went back and added more of the Leather color or Black color in spots that had lightened up overnight.
Step 3: Protect the area you are staining
Spray down the area to make sure there is no dust or debris. Plus, you’ll want the concrete a little damp for this step as well. I’m using Olympic Waterguard, which is a clear, multi-surface water-proofer. It penetrates and protects against water damage and provides a mildew-resistant coating on your newly stained concrete. You can apply this with a brush, sprayer or roller. I opted for roller.
Let the sealant dry for about 12 hours and you are all set to enjoy your newly stained concrete!